Worst Blogger Ever

Wow, everyone, my apologies for not having written a post in weeks! In my defense, I had no internet access at home in the new apartment I moved to, and for reasons unknown the modem at my office decided it no longer wanted to work consistently so I had a total of about 20 minutes of browsing time Monday to Friday. ("This is Ghana!")

Well, I have officially flown internationally ALONE. Boy, have I impressed myself. As I was readying to leave the AFS office yesterday afternoon, I realized at the last moment that I'd forgotten to print my e-ticket, so I ran back inside and took care of that. Then, when I reached the Accra airport, I realized I had forgotten to take my passport from the safe at AFS. (Minor heart attack, as I'd had a nightmare the week previous that I'd forgotten it.) The AFS employees that brought me were able to get in touch with the office and another employee brought it to me about 20 minutes later. Security, immigration, etc., took ages and felt thoroughly disorganized. Also, with the lax Ghanaian punctuality, passengers late for their flights were constantly jumping the line, so it felt as though the line wasn't really moving. Once I finally got through, I picked up some Pebbles (Ghanaian peanut M&M's) and Blue Skies (fresh pineapple juice), peed, and waited to board. Taking the bus out to the tarmac was so incredible; I can remember vividly how alert my senses were to everything around me, how incredibly hot it had felt. How heavy my backpack was from packing so much useless crap into my carry-on. On the plane, I changed into sweats, put my eye cover on and passed out till a flight attendant put a tray of food in front of me. (I found it very ironic that the chicken meal included rice.) The weirdest thing about that meal was that there was a piece of chocolate cake that I didn't pay 7 Cedis for. I watched a movie and managed to doze a bit more and here I am - back in Schiphol.

I always tended to think people who said "oh, it feels like yesterday!" were a little full of it, but sitting here in the airport I finally understand that feeling. It feels like yesterday that I was sitting here, agonizingly nervous and expectant. I cannot believe two months has passed. I feel that I was just getting the "groove" of things in Accra, and I have to admit that I regret having changed my ticket. All I can do is be grateful and proud that I stuck it out to 8 weeks. And now I know (1) I can live in a foreign country, even an undeveloped one, by myself (2) that you cannot die of homesickness and that if you can stick out the first 4-6 weeks, you wont even remember you were homesick in the first place, and (3) to truly benefit from traveling to a foreign country, you need to live there for at least 2 months, in fact I would say 2-3 months is the minimum. I hope I've learned more than just those three, but those are the ones my overtired, soggy brain has come up with for the moment.

Now, I am off to clean up a bit, caffeinate myself, and walk around Amsterdam. (I can do that now, because I'm not afraid. How cool is that?) I miss you all and cannot WAIT to bore you to tears with pictures and stories of my time in Accra!

Much love,
Emily

Haatso

I've moved into the spare room in the flat that a fellow University of Ottawa-ian is living with an Australian expat and another Canadian. I still have about half my things at Kobby's as I have not yet been given official approval by my hosting organization to live there. I have a meeting with them this Friday, during which I'm assuming we'll discuss the fall-out with my last host, and whether I am "allowed" to stay living in the flat. By this Friday, I'll have only a week left so I doubt they'll try to fix me with yet another host family for the sake of being nearer to work, but there may be problems with me being at the flat, since the organization is built upon the connection between exchange students and hosts. I can only hope they empathize with how much it sucks to sit in a sweaty trotro for 2 hours at the beginning and end of every day and let me stay where I am. I also desperately hope I am not blamed or criticized too harshly for the termination of my homestay in Dome...
Work, at least, continues to be fantastic. I've written the first draft of the proposal to N.E.D. to fund a leadership and political involvement training program for women here at the Women's Law and Human Rights Institute and moved on to editing and reformatting a training manual for republication.
To update you on how I'm doing, I can tell you I no longer wake up and find my surroundings surprising. And using trotros have become totally normal. I don't even think twice about doing laundry or showering with buckets. My fascination with the sheep, goats, chickens, and dogs everywhere has worn off. The little shops along the roads are extremely convenient and going to a grocery store is a huge hassle. I can't imagine living in any other temperature that what it is here. I definitely can't imagine blow drying my hair or putting on makeup. I've gotten really good at French-braiding my hair so it's off my face and neck. I'm breaking out fairly consistently on my face, yet the frequency of times I forget to look in the mirror is constantly increasing, and, likely as a result, I feel comfortable and attractive pretty much all the time. I eat lots of whatever I want, including ice cream 3 times a day if I feel like it (and I often do). In fact, I rarely let myself get to the point of feeling hungry I eat so much. My mouth doesn't burn quite as violently when I eat Ghanian food, and in fact I was quite disappointed by my PB&J sandwich today with everyone around me eating  local foods. I had it on whole wheat bread and it tasted dry and cardboard-y and I can't wait to go buy a loaf of (white) butter bread. My digestion is completely back to normal. I eat rice with my hand because switching to a fork is too much of a hassle when you're eating chicken. (Plus forks are just stupid!. No, think about it, if it doesn't need a spoon, why bother? The tangs are just little fingers anyway...) It's weird to see white people. The clothes I brought now seem really boring and monochromatic. But, most of all, I'm shocked that I've only been here six weeks. I'm not sure if it feels longer or shorter, but something about that portion of time just doesn't seem accurate. Even more shocking is the thought that I'll be back in Canada in two weeks. I was convinced I'd never adapt to living here, that I'd feel a constant anxiety to get out of here until the second before I boarded my flight out of Accra. But now, I'm starting to feel a little sad knot in the pit of my stomach when I think about all I'm leaving behind...
Regardless, I look forward to seeing you all.
A special bundle of love from across the big blue to my Gramma. I hope you're healthy and doing well.
Love always,
Em xoxo

Worst-Case Scenario....Again

Well, I've officially experienced the feared "worst-case scenario" host family. If one thing can be said about this trip, it's that I'm experiencing the extremes of everything! It's Extreme International Exchange! As I've had to explain what happened to several people, and because they're really quite horrible to relive, I wont go into detail about the events here. Suffice it to say, I've moved back to Kobby's and intend to move again (hopefully for the last time) into a spare room with some other Expats for my final weeks in Accra, as the commute is 2 hours one way from Kobby's to my work.
This past weekend, I went to Osu with a fellow Canadian and her Australian roommate. We went to this bizarrely Western supermarket, a fantastic store called Global Mamas that sells handmade clothes, jewelery, bags, etc, Ryan's Irish Pub (another bizarre experience to have in central Accra), and a truly amazing African arts and crafts store.
This weekend I hope to visit an area called Asylum Down with some friends, where we'll be going to Ghana's National Museum, a shop called Sun Trade Beads and, if my friends and I are feeling brave enough, Accra Market. Markets are very intimidating here - you get swarmed by people selling everything from pineapples to custom bracelets, and "no thank you" is either met with increased effort or offense.
More to come!
Miss you all very much!

Typical Day in Ghana

I thought you might be interested in what a "typical" work day is like for me over here. It struck me this morning how normal it's become for me, and that it's pretty similar to a work day anywhere else, except in the details... Here's what I mean.
I wake up at 6 AM to lock the gate after my host sister who has a driver take her to school at this time (I live with a wealthier family; Allison - she goes to Montessori and is just finishing grade seven). I have cereal for breakfast, because I can't do spicy rice and meat first thing in the morning, iron whatever I will wear to work that day, boil some water and pour it into a bucket in the showering room, adding some room-temperature water from the big storage bins of water to make it warm, and bathe by pouring water from the bucket over my head with a big ladle. I get dressed, braid my hair, and brush my teeth with more stored water (being careful not to swallow and spit it all out). If I have something for lunch I pack it up, otherwise I take my bag with my work things, unlock the padlock on the inside of the gate, return the keys to the house, and lock the padlock after me on the outside of the gate when I leave.
The trotro station I go to is a short walk up the road. It's called Pillar 2 Oheneho (or something like that). I take a trotro direction Dome and after an extremely bumpy ride, get off at a main intersection between Dome and Dome Market. Sometimes I buy some bufloat or cake for a snack later in the morning. Next, I take a trotro directoin Madina and get off at "Carpenter's Shop" in Haatso. This stop is tricky because for the longest time I thought they were saying "Carpington's Stop" because of the accent and when I tried to repeat it no one had any idea what I was talking about. Eventually, I was told it was actually Carpenter's Shop, and now I have a pretty easy time of getting off where I need to. So, next I walk past the carpenter's shop and a brick factory, and turn down Queen Street (a.k.a. Why My Feet Are Always Dirty Road), a dirt road that is extremely potholed and usually flooded with small lakes that are filled with garbage that I attempt to walk around without slipping on the mud.
I work from 8:30 AM to 4 PM. At lunch a young woman named Beatrice, or Bee, goes into Haatso Station up the road to pick up food for people here in the office. Sometimes I give her some money and ask for rice and chicken, or I go with her for the trip.
The return trip is rather funny because I can't get a trotro at the same place I get off in the morning. I have to go into Dome Market and get a trotro for Pillar 2 there. Both commutes are around one hour, and costs 85 pesewas each way. I'm always the only white person on the trotro, but people are usually friendly and appreciative when I try to use the few twi phrases I know. I can't tell you how many times I've got lost or on the wrong side of the street trying to "pick" a trotro going the wrong way, and been redirected by a friendly Ghanaian who can tell how confused I am.
Well, I hope that was mildly interesting. Feel free to let me know if there's anything in particular you'd like to hear about!

So what the heck am I doing over here anyway?

The Ark Foundation is a huge organization in terms of the scope of services they offer to Ghanaian women and children. The two main divisions of the NGO are (1) the Women's Law and Human Rights Institute (WLHRI), which runs training programs on leadership, human rights, gender equality, social development etc., and offers legal advice and free legal representation, and (2) the Anti-Violence Program (AVP), which provides counseling, a 24 hour crisis hotline, the only women's shelter in Ghana, and a lot of outreach projects regarding safe sex to stop the spread of AIDS, prevention of child and spousal abuse, etc.
I intern in the WLHRI. So far I've written two letters requesting institutional affiliation, one to the Coady Institute in Nova Scotia and one to Spelman College in Atlanta, because the Women's Law and Human Rights Institute (WLHRI) here at The Ark is seeking accreditation as an educational/training institution, and to become accredited in Ghana (and internationally) they need to be affiliated with an already accredited institution. Then I did some research on other social justice-based NGOs called "Ark" so that we can send out invitations to become affiliated with each other. Then I drafted a letter The Ark can send to future interns regarding what they can do to prepare, and what to expect and so on. Then I did some research on the electoral process of Ghana, which required a fair amount of background research into the history of Ghana to understand it, and currently I'm drafting a proposal for the National Endowment for Democracy to fund a program to promote Ghanaian' women's participation in government and democracy. I've also done some administrative type stuff - make lists of contacts, joined a couple of the project officers here while they made a presentation on Women's Human Rights to the female officers at the Fire Service and handed out pamphlets.
It's pretty dry, considering my personal and scholastic interest is more in the area of what the AVP does (and direct contact with women/children), but they recently lost the financial support of their major donor (Ghana is now considered on the "almost developed" end of "developing" and many donors are withdrawing funding) so they need major help finding grants elsewhere. So, I may not be on the "front lines", but I'm still helping, I think.
The Ark Foundation has a website (www.arkfoundationghana.org) if you want to take a look, and feel free to ask me questions! With my shared internet connection here at work, it's difficult to upload photos on Blogger and Facebook, but I promise I'm taking TONS and I will share them all when I get back!
Hope you're well! As always, I miss you.
Much love,
Emily

Checking in!

Well, hello again! Sorry for the delay since the last post, I don't have internet access at my new host family's place so the only chance I get online is at work when I should be, well, working. (I've made a little exception for the moment.)

As I said, I'm at a new host family, which I'll be staying at till I fly out Saturday July 2nd. The head of the household is a single business woman, Yvonne. Also living there are her 12 year old daughter, Gabriella, and her fiance's 3 year old son, Kwaku. I got my own room after about a week of living there, but even still there are a lot of cultural differences regarding privacy (and nakedness) that I've been addressing. The house is in an area called Dome (pronounced dome-eh) that is a lot less developed than were I was living before in Tesano (Kobby's) so the roads are dirt and really uneven with huge pot holes and rifts that the heavy rains form. I got my hair done the first weekend I was there in Ghanaian style at one of the many salons in the area, though I had to take it out after about a week because the extensions were giving me a painful rash on my scalp.

This past weekend I went to the Central Region of Ghana to visit Cape Coast with another Canadian volunteer, Amanda, and her Australian roomie, Loretta. We left fairly early Saturday morning for the bus station and got tickets for a noon bus, but did not leave until after 3 PM. (They also made us pay 3 cedes extra because the bus that finally came for us was a fancy coach, making the total cost 12 cedes. Amanda and I were losing our minds.) We arrived in Cape Coast as it was already getting dark, but after getting a room at Flying Victory Hotel, we walked through the town a bit taking pictures, down to the shore where we had delicious burgers at the Blue Oasis Resort and watched a traditional singing/drumming/dancing troupe perform. Next day we went to Kakum National Park for their Canopy Walk, unfortunately the largest creature I saw was a massive spider on a tree because the visitors were making so much noise. After we went through Cape Coast Castle, a British fort that was one of the first to stop trading in slaves. We saw an awful isolation cell, dungeons, and the Door of No Return through which slaves were led to board ships bound for the Americas and Europe. Then we boarded a bus (from a different transport line for which we waited only 45 minutes this time) and we back to Accra.

This weekend, I will be going to the market and Osu area with Amanda and Loretta for some shopping and sight-seeing. After that I have two weekends left, and I'm hoping to travel out of Accra at least once more, to Kumasi in the Ashanti Region or the Volta Region where there are lots of wildlife in the National Park there.

In the meantime, I've been given a rather daunting project at Ark to keep me busy, though I will try to post again soon. I hope you are all healthy and doing well.

Much love,

Emily

African Union Day

A very happy African Union Day to all!

I have moved into my host family's house and will remain here until I leave on July 2nd. When their current guest leaves I will have my room, which I'm very thankful for. Until then I'm sharing with my host sister Gabriella. She's got shelves along one entire wall of her room packed with shoes. I can see our friendship going a long way.

Right now, we're watching a football game of a bunch of the Black Stars and other amazing world footballers in a game of Africa vs. the World. There's lots of Ghanaian music and dancing, it's pretty cool.

Hopefully, after, I'll be getting some more clothing for work. I should have trusted my gut and packed at least twice as much clothing and fancier shoes. Ah, well. The fashion here is amazing so I'm sure I'll get some good stuff. I'm hoping to also have at least one African-style dress made - they're so beautiful, I can't pass up the opportunity.

Well, I hope you are all happy and healthy. I miss you, as always.

Much love.

Birthday in Accra

Hello all!

I turned 23 today! I had a very relaxing day reading and napping, and I went to a beautiful spot on the coast of Accra proper for a bite with another Canadian, two Germans, and three Ghanaians. The sea breeze was so refreshing, and on our way out to the parking lot, I got a beginner's drumming lesson!
When I got home, I sat with my current host family for a lil Rush Hour 3, and they got me a delicious piece of cake from a bakery nearby! How sweet is that?

That's me, Kobby, Afi, Ato, and my cake in the middle!

Hope you are all healthy and happy.
Much love,
Emmy

The Ark Foundation

Well, this morning I put my big girl underpants on and came to work all by myself. Unfortunately, I endured 20 minutes of poking, prodding, and marriage proposals from a trotro driver while I waited to leave Circle, but I managed! I'll be going home by myself, too. That will be trickier - it takes three trotros to get back, and the traffic on Fridays in even more insane than the rest of the week.
Working at the Ark Foundation is absolutely amazing. The work they do here in Ghana is phenomenal. They provide the only shelter for women and children, for example. There are several shelters for children, but only Ark's takes women, too. They also have a 24-hour crisis hotline, legal services, including free legal representation, free counseling with social workers, and all kinds of training programs for women on leadership, advocacy, women's rights, etc.Right now, I'm helping The Ark seek affiliation with a university or college in order to for the Women's Law and Human Rights Institute to become an accredited institute of education. How freaking cool is that?
In other news...
I found a bakery that has cake. Real. Cake. I don't know why, but no one here has a sweet tooth, and (of course) I've been craving sweets since getting here. I plan to eat a giant piece today.
Oh, and I wear SPF 60 sunblock every day, and Deet-filled mosquito repellant, and I'm getting tanned and bitten daily. Someone explain this to me, please. (I think I may even be getting tanned through my shirts - is that even possible?)
Hope you are all well,
love and kisses,
Emily

p.s. No one in Canada has the right to use air conditioning. If it's not 30 degrees Celsius, don't turn it on. We're using fans and it's 30 degrees all the freaking time. Drink more water and suck it up! We only get two or three months of real summer weather and it's minimum 30 degrees here all the time! I propose that Canada develop an application system for air conditioning. People with certain health conditions or over/under certain ages can apply to use it more liberally, and everyone else is only allowed if it's over 30 degrees. See? I should clearly run Canada.

Work Begins

I reached some more landmarks today. The first, I received my orientation for work today. The Ark Foundation does so much for this country - for example, theirs is the only women and children's center in Ghana. There are a few children's shelters, but only theirs for women, too. I'm very excited to help them in any way I can.
Second, I've officially been called obruni. On the way home from the office - with the help of Sydney (a neighbour of the family I'm staying with temporarily) and two trotros and one shared taxi - I was crossing one of the many streets in Circle, and I walked smack into the back of Sydney. All the people around laughed and said, "Ah! Obruni, eh?" Syd was none too pleased, either.
Third, I've had my first marriage proposal. I went for a walk to the corner and back looking for bread, and on the way back was called over to a young man by a shop. He asked me if I was married and I said "yes, well, engaged" and he asked where my husband was ("Canada"). He then informed me that he would be my second husband, because I needed a white one and a black one. I said I didn't think I could handle two, and politely ended the conversation. Phew!
Also, I'm in the process of changing my return date, as I have decided to complete an 8-week internship rather than a 12-week one. I think I'll still be able to learn a lot in 8 weeks, and hopefully provide some usefulness, too, so I'm happy with the change. In retrospect, I think Accra was just a little far for my first independent traveling experience.
Much love,
Emily

Kobby's House

Well, I've moved again, this time from the Golden Lemon Guest House (which would have been very expensive to stay at for a week) to Kobby's. Kobby is an employee at AFS here in Ghana, and is very kind (like all the others I've met here). I'll be here until the 23rd (next Monday) when I will go to my host family.
Today, I'm going to familiarize myself with the area a little and take taxis to the AFS office - BY MYSELF! It takes two to get there - one to Circle, then one in the direction of Worker's College, where I will get off by a big Catholic Cathedral or YWCA, depending on the route they take. Hopefully the language barrier wont be too much of a problem. Wish me luck!
Later, I will meet Fabian, a German volunteer who has already been here in Accra for 10 months, help me figure out trotro routes. Hopefully, I'll also be able to pick up some fabric from the market, but I may leave that to another day...
I'm missing you all very much and look forward to being home. But, I promise, I'm taking in every moment here while I can.
All my love,
Emily

A Little Bit of Accra

Here are a few observations I've made in the week I've been here that I think you may find interesting...

1. the traffic is INSANE. First of all, if there are rules of the road, the only one that's loosely followed is "drive on the right side of the road". Cars will go into the far left (oncoming) lane to turn left, do U-turns where ever they want, randomly form a third lane in the middle of the road... like I said, it's crazy. Secondly, all the big cars (trucks, SUVs) do whatever they please because they know they're safe if they get in an accident, so the littler cars have to do their best to stay out of the line of fire, so to speak. Everyone drives as fast as they can, or want, and it's usually right behind the bumper of the person in front of them. Cars are driven until they die on the side of the road. Literally. And then men come and help the driver push-start it. Trotros are dented and dinged up from hitting things and things hitting them, and are are know to have their brakes give out, but their the cheapest way to get around and their always packed.
2. there are lots of animals everywhere. Flocks of 1 to about 4 or 5 sheep graze on the side of the road. Chickens wander around the side of the road and around stalls. I hear rooster calls in the morning. There are a lot of medium-sized dogs. No really big ones, no really small ones, all look approximately the same, (smallish head with a pointed snout, slight body, and bottle brush tail) in various colours. There are many cats too. They all look like they are between the age of kitten-hood and adult-cat-hood, when they're thin and kind of gangly, but I'm not sure if they're kittens or just skinny. Dogs and cats go the stalls with their owners so you can usually find the cats milling around them, or, like last night, a dog curled up sleeping in front of it. 
3. sales. Holy cow. There are stalls lining the streets, packed more and more tightly the closer you get to downtown. They are three-walled structures that vary from ones made of wood that resemble fishing shacks with a wooden gate that closes and locks when the shop closes, to metal ones with a metal gate, to concrete ones with glass windows and doors on the front. You can buy pretty much anything from them, drinks, snacks, groceries, pharmacy items, shoes, clothes, have pictures printed, etc. There are also vendors who walk up and down stopped traffic selling items held in big bowls carried on their heads. This is very convenient in a trotro, since the top of head of the vendors reaches approximately the bottom of the window so you can just reach in a take what you want. They sell water sachets, phone cards, toiletries, gum, chocolate, belts, bicycle tires, sandals, and probably anything else you can think of.
4. there doesn't seem to be a huge emphasis put on property value here, though I've only been here a week so maybe it's different in different areas. Anyway, the areas I've seen have huge mansions and other nice homes next to decrepit buildings and slums. It's definitely different.
5. food. Breakfast wouldn't be breakfast in Accra without Milo! The milk used in Milo, coffee, and tea is a tin of Carnation condensed milk. There are two main types of bread, sugar bread and butter bread. They are baked in wood burning ovens in stalls on the side of the road and they are the most wonderful thing I've ever tasted. Banku is a starch food made of casava and corn that comes in a ball and has the consistency of raw dough. It's eaten with soup or sauce with meat (fish, chicken, and/or goat). You pinch pieces off with your fingers and press a divot in the center and kind of use it as a spoon. Kinki is the same idea except it's made only with corn and it has corn husks around it. Fufu is casava and another grain that's escaping me at the moment. Anyway, it's much stickier and it's swallowed without chewing. Oh, yes, and when there's goat in the soup, it's aaaaall the goat. I haven't had it myself because I don't think I could handle the rubbery skin. The staple food here is rice - plain rice, fried rice, jallof rice. It's very good, but it gets a little sickening when you eat it twice a day.

Hope that was interesting, I'll report more as it comes. Love you all, and miss you very much.
Emily

Golden Lemon Guest House

Hello again! So, here's the update everyone: I developed some sort of intestinal infection after eating something my system was not prepared for, or possibly drinking sachet water that was infected, I'm not sure, anyway I was admitted to C & J Medical Hospital in Accra on Wednesday morning and left Friday afternoon. I got probably 7 rounds of IV antibiotics, some fluids, too, and am still on oral antibiotics, but I feel MUCH better. There were some issues with the host family I was originally going to stay with so I have been moved to a guest house (kind of a bed and breakfast type deal) until a temporary family can be found. I will be going to my new host family on May 23rd.
I've been in Accra one week tonight, and I'm not going to lie, it's been really tough. I've been brutally homesick and culture shocked, and sick, so it's been a small slice of hell. The biggest consolation has been your encouragement and the kindness of the people here. For example, there was a lady with malaria in the same ward as me while I was in the hospital. She heard me crying in my bed Wednesday night, I think, and asked me what was wrong and I explained that I was missing my family and she said she was too, but don't worry, if I am missing my mummy, I can look over at her and think she is with me. On Friday, when we were both discharged, I sat with her, her sister Tina, and her younger son Ernest, and I was invited to share their lunch with them, and they bought me water, and we talked about our families. They gave me the phone numbers of a relative in Canada, a relative in Cote d'Ivoire, and Tina gave me her number, too, so that I could let her know if I go home or stay in Ghana. Sitting there with them laughing and talking was so rejuvenating for me, since I felt so deprived of familial contact. It was wonderful.
There's so much I think of throughout the day that I want to share with you all, I hope next time I sit down to write my memory will serve me better! I hope you are all doing well, I know I am missing out on a fabulous party today, and I wish very much that I was there. I love you all so much.
Until next time!
Emily

AFS Ghana Orientation, Day 1

Greetings family and friends and my Coco Banana,

Wow. So much has happened since arriving. I have not had access to internet, which is why I have not been able to email or post. We were picked up at the airport by two AFS reps, a young man and woman. From there we went to the Crystal Beam Hostel. We are staying there until tomorrow, when our host families are to pick us up. I have purchased a (very cheap) cell phone and will buy some minutes for it today when we're finished orientation so I can make some brief calls to Mum and Dad, and Cody.
Some incredible things I have experienced already, only 36 hour in:

1. getting my passport taken away at immigration because I did not have my host family's address (don't worry, I ended up putting AFS Ghana's address and getting it back)
2. women's urinals. This is why they do not use their left hands. 
3. food venders on the side of the road. The one we went to had three or four skinny little pet cats roaming around. I gave them bits of banku, but didn't pet them, juuust in case.(In an ironic twist, the doctor that spoke to us this morning told us to not buy food from street vendors. Though our AFS guides have taken us at least twice. Hmmm....)
4. bitten by a (fire?) ant in bed. Holy crap did that hurt. Oh, and maybe this is just the hostel, but you do not sleep with sheets over you at night. It rained hard this morning, apparently the rainy season has officially begun. Time to bust out the mosquito net and bug spray!

I got to meet the Director of AFS Ghana, and he is a very friendly and welcoming man. We are learning some Twi (pronounced Chwee), the local language, to make communication easier, and are diving right in to local foods. I find it very spicy so I can only eat small amounts at a time.
As I said, tomorrow evening I will go to my host family, and I am very excited. Apparently, Ghanaian families are very protective of their children, particularly of their daughters, (so be comforted, Mum and Dad!). I will have three young host siblings, which I am excited to meet. I hope I can maybe help them with their English, and they will help me with my Twi. I'm looking forward to being away from my fellow Canadians and be immersed in Ghanaian culture, since being here only three months, I need to soak up every minute. I miss my friends, family, and Cody very much, however. I have not been approached or hit on or offered a marriage proposal from any Ghanaian men, so either my ring is working or I'm not too attractive according to Ghanaian standards! Either way, I feel much more comfortable about that.
Well, with some luck I'll be able to write again in a couple of days.
I assure you I'm doing everything to keep safe and healthy.
I love and miss you all very much.
Emily

Amsterdam Airport

Egg McMuffin, the universal breakfast food of travelers, fast food junkies, and those nursing a hangover, available worldwide "thanks" to the globalization of Western corporations, including but limited to McCrapFood - check. Shower - check. Book - check. Bench in a reasonably quiet lounge area to facilitate napping - check. Complete exhaustion and lack of focus on what I'm writing right now - double check. Now, to figure out a way to strap myself into my backpack so that it can't get stolen while sleeping...

Will write again in Accra.